Basic Alignment
During regular operations one should not have to do the basic alignment. However,
if something is horribly misaligned or parts of the system have been altered or removed
and reinstalled this procedure may be necessary.
If all is running ok, the basic alignment outlined below should only
take a few minutes to an hour to do. The only way for things to get
seriously out of alignment is for the bench to be handled roughly
enough to dislodge, bump, or break a piece of equipment. The Lick
staff are careful and such misalignment or catastrophic damage is
unlikely.
- Install alignment pinholes. There are 5 alignment pinholes 3 of
which need to be installed: in front of the first parabola, deformable
mirror (DM), and the second parabola. Make sure to mount the pinholes
such that the number label on the pinhole matches the number label on
the post holder and that the scribe marks on the pinhole mounts and
postholders are aligned. 2 alignment pinholes are permanently mounted:
behind the first mirror after cassagrain focus and before the TT Cube.
- Connect battery powered red laser to alignment fiber (or you can
connect the HeNe fiber to the alignment laser).
- Adjust RLS brightness to maximum if using the HeNe laser.
If there is little light coming
out of the alignment laser check the following:
- Fibers are well coupled at the FC connector.
- Fibers may need to be cleaned.
- RLS (HeNe) alignment may need adjusting.
(Detailed directions to come...)
- Move fiber stage out of way. This can be done via software or (if
the motor is turned off) manually by pushing the stage out of the way
and holding it there by inserting a block in the mount to keep it in
the out of the way position.
- Remove 1st Turning Mirror. This is the mirror just before the
cassegrain focus. Unscrew the 3 clamps, on back of mount, holding the
mirror in the mount. Make sure that each clamp is put back into the
same position as when the mirror was in the mount. The 3 clamps are
not identical and not interchangable. If they are swapped the mirror
will be in a significantly different position and alignment on the sky
will be difficult (sky alignment directions to come later....)
- Remove 1st mirror after Cassegrain focus. Remove the 3 spring loaded
screws from the front of the mirror mount and carefully remove the mirror.
- Align through first pinhole (which is located behind the 1st mirror
after cassegrain focus).
- Center alignment laser on pinhole by moving the motors on the
alignment laser mount. The most sensitive way to do this (for any
pinhole alignment) is to make the iris slightly smaller than the
laser spot and adjust until there is an even halo of light around the
hole.
- Reinstall 1st mirror after cassegrain focus.
- Align through pinhole #1.
- Turn on TT 100V supply (make sure it is supplying 100V and
not in standby mode). The supply may need programming if it
has just been turned on. Make sure it is in standby mode, type
100 on the keypad and press enter. Then take it out of standby
mode to supply 100V to the mirror.
- Move 1st mirror after cassegrain focus to center alignment
laser on pinhole #1.
- Make sure that alignment laser is roughly centered on the
TT mirror. The penalty for being off center is a somewhat reduced
field-of-view, approximately 4 arcsec/mm.
If it is not centered something is seriously awry: either the
position of the permanently mounted first pinhole has been changed
or the position of pinhole #1 has been changed. Easiest to check is
beam height. Beam height should be 7.5 inches above the table.
- Align through pinhole #2.
- Open pinhole #1.
- Move 1st mirror after cassegrain focus to center alignment laser
on pinhole #2. This should be a small movement.
- Close pinhole #1 to see how far off center the spot is. If off
center by less than 1mm, proceed to next step.
NOTE: It is typical that when perfectly
aligned through pinhole #2, that the spot will be low (by a mm or two)
on either or both pinhole #1 and #3. This is OK.
Penalty for
being off center is a reduced field-of-view (4 arcsec/mm) and some
added common path astigmatism. Small common path aberrations can be
calibrated out later and are not of much concern. If off by
more than a few millimeters,
you may need recenter through pinhole #1 and tilt the parabola to
center through pinhole #2, by using the screws on the back of
its mount. Before tilting the parabola, check to see how far off center
the alignment laser is on pinhole #3. If this is also off by
more than a few millimeters, then tilting of the 1st parabola needs
to be done as well as tilting the DM. WARNING:
Only undertake tilting the 1st parabola and DM if absolutely
necessary (i.e. things are very far off and you are sure there
no other problems). It is very difficult to tilt the DM and small
aberrations are preferable to the pain of changing this alignment or
the chance of messing up the registration of the
actuators with the subapertures.
- Align through pinhole #3.
- Open pinholes #1 and #2.
- Evaluate how far off center the spot is on pinhole #3. If
off center by less than a couple millimeters and well aligned through
pinhole #2, don't do anything else. Move 1st mirror after cass focus
if you think you can get a reasonable compromise alignment through
pinholes #1, #2, and #3. See note above about typical alignment.
NOTE: Proper alignment through Pinhole #2 is most important.
It is typical for the spot to be slightly off center on pinholes #1 and #3
(usually a millimeter or so high on #1 and a couple millimeters low on #3, if
this is the case, don't bother moving either parabola or the DM tilt).
- Align to 1st Dichroic. Alignment laser should be below center on
the 1st Dichroic, but centered on the turning mirror behind it. If necessary
(shouldn't be if nothing has changed with respect to 1st parabola and DM tilt),
tilt the 2nd parabola to steer beam to the center of the turning mirror behind
the 1st Dichroic.
- Align through TT Cube pinhole.
- If only aligning for NGS mode and the mirror is in the 2nd
Dichroic mount, move the 1st Dichroic so that the alignment laser
is roughly centered on the mirror.
- If the dichroic is in the 2nd Dichroic mount, move the 1st
Dichroic to center the beam through the TT Cube pinhole. This will,
by default, put you well centered on the 2nd Dichroic.
- Align to center of WFS Steering mirror.
- Place the small paper target on the WFS Steering mirror.
- Move 2nd Dichroic to center alignment laser on the target.
- Remove target.
You should now be ready to do WFS Alignment and/or IRCAL initial alignment.
WFS Alignment
The goal here is to align the WFS optics to the beam line established
by the alignment laser. Once that is done, the lenslet array is installed
and internal WFS alignment is done to calibrate out any aberrations internal
to the WFS. If all is in good shape, it will take an hour to do this
procedure, but do not be surprised if it takes significantly longer.
- Record micrometer positions for all the optics in the WFS. While
this isn't strictly necessary, it can be helpful if things go terribly
awry and you need to get back to where you started.
- Remove all WFS optics. Make sure they all have locating blocks before
you remove any of the optics! The lenslet array doesn't have a designated
locating block, so you will have to move the WFS iris and use it as a locating
block for the lenslet array.
- Move WFS Steering mirror to center laser on the
WFS camera chip.
- Start real-time control software if it is not already running.
- Turn off lights, darkness is required for the rest of this procedure.
- Do the following iterative procedure until spot is centered on
WFS camera crosshairs both with and without the 1st Reducing lens in.
- Adjust brightness of alignment laser so that WFS camera is
not completely saturated.
- Insert 1st Reducing lens.
- Move 2nd Dichroic to center spot on WFS crosshairs.
- Remove 1st Reducing lens.
- Move WFS Steering mirror to center spot on WFS crosshairs.
- Install 1st Reducing lens if it isn't already in place.
- Install 2nd Reducing lens.
- Steer 2nd Reducing lens in X and Y to center spot on WFS crosshairs.
- Install Collimating lens.
- Steer in X and Y to center spot on WFS crosshairs.
- Install fiber chuck on the Iris stage.
- Move Iris stage to center fiber chuck on alignment laser.
- Insert RLS fiber in the fiber chuck.
- Collimate Collimating lens.
- Remove the filter wheel. This is necessary so there
is enough room to put in the shear cube.
- Put the small shear cube between the Collimating lens
and the lenslet array position.
- Move the Iris stage in Z (using the micrometer) until the
fringes are parallel to the shear cube fiducial.
- Remove the shear cube.
- Install the filter wheel.
- Install Lenslet array.
- Make sure that real-time code is running with the quadcell centroider
and using the scratch parameters. Also make sure that the hartmannModes
are all zero.
Type the following into CentDiag.
- centquad
- sparms
Zero all zernike modes in CentDiag HartmannModes GUI.
- Align lenslet array. Perform the following steps iteratively until
all hartmann spots in the CentDiag display are within their inner circles
at the highest magnification.
- Adjust brightness of RLS so that there are approximately 10000 to 15000
counts per subaperture on the CentDiag display.
- Center hartmann spots by moving 2nd Reducing lens X and Y. Use the
CentDiag display to measure tip and tilt. Try to get both tip and tilt
to be within +-0.05.
- Adjust Lenslet array rotation. Repeat the following until rotation is
as close to 0.0 degrees as possible (usually to within a tenth of a degree).
- Take WFS Data
- Use aoIDL to measure WFS rotation. This program will calculate the overall rotation of the hartmann pattern and predict the amount and direction of the goniometer move.
- Turn goniometer the suggested amount
- Take more WFS Data, etc.
- Focus hartmann spots by adjusting CCD focus micrometer. This should
be unnecessary since we are no longer changing to a different lenslet
array for LGS mode. If it is necessary, do the following:
- Record the X and Y micrometer positions of the 2nd Reducing lens.
- Record the CCD Focus micrometer position.
- Steer 2nd Reducing lens in X and Y until the light for each
hartmann spot is centered on a single pixel.
- Adjust the CCD Focus micrometer until you get the smallest
spots possible. You may have to keep adjusting the X and Y position of
the 2nd Reducing to keep the spots centered on a single pixel.
- If you get lost or confused, return to your starting point and
try again (this is why you wrote down those micrometer positions).
- Center hartmann spots by moving 2nd Reducing lens X and Y.
- Adjust WFS magnification (should not be necessary unless something
drastic has happened - standard position on micrometer is 4.060)
- Coarse Focus WFS
- Take an WFS camera background, i.e. turn off RLS and push the
cflat button in the CentDiag window.
- Change to the QuadCell centroider, i.e. type centquad
into the CentDiag window.
- Make sure that you are using scratch parameters, i.e. type
sparms in CentDiag.
- Use the CentDiag display to measure the wavefront focus.
- Move Iris stage Z micrometer until Focus is close to 0.0,
e.g. within +-0.005.
- Fine WFS Alignment. Do the following iterative procedure until focus,
tip, and tilt are all 0.0 (+- 0.01).
- Focus WFS: Move Iris stage Z until CentDiag focus is as close
to 0.0 as possible (within a couple of hundreths).
- Center Spots: Move Iris stage X and Y until CentDiag tip and tilt
are 0.0.
- Take Reference Centroids for all the algorithms
For lgs7 type the following into CentDiag:
- refcent
- centcm
- sparms
- refcent
- centbin
- sparms
- refcent
- centcorr
- sparms
- refcent
- Move WFS iris from being the lenslet locator block back to right
in front of the WFS filter wheel.
- Close WFS iris. The hartmann spots making it through the iris
should be close to the center of the WFS crosshairs. Note which spots
are illuminated. Pointing and Centering adjustments later should
cause the same hartmann spots to be illuminated when properly aligned
through the iris stage iris and WFS optics.
- Open WFS iris.
Micrometer motions: To assist with aligning the WFS optics, the following
table describes which micrometer does what and which direction to turn
the micrometers for the desired effect. Many of these adjustments are
unnecessary for typical alignment and listed for reference only.